Alaska, Mexico, and everywhere in between.: Skimming and Surfing

Over the past week a huge swell has been rolling into Sayulita, lot's of huge waves, and a massive shore break. The first day of the swell Dad and I paddled out in between two sets. I caught a smaller wave on the way out and learned that the wave stayed really flat allowing for late drops and maximized carving. I got back out to where Dad was just as a set pounded through. Four 5-7 ft waves rolled through the lineup as 15 to 30 people paddled for them. I caught one and worked just until it closed out. I think Dad got a nice ride too but it was hard to tell. I stayed out for a long time but went in when the waves got bigger. I ran back to the house and grabbed Mom's camera. It wasn't until I got back to the beach that I found out the camera was dead. I went back to the house, switched out the batteries, and ran back to the beach just in time to see Dad catch a monster. He caught four or five more waves but came in when he saw me on the beach. After talking to me for about 15 minutes he paddled back out and caught more waves.

The next day I took pictures of Dad, and his friends surfing. On the third day I noticed how good the skim boarding was. I left the camera with Mom and griffin on the beach and grabbed my skimboard. The waves kept setting up perfectly one after another. I did some huge airs and perfected my flips. The next day the waves were even bigger and even better. As I was walking down to the beach I saw Mitch, my friend Miller's dad, and he told that Miller and a couple friends were at "Foamies" a body boarding break a couple hundred feet down the beach. I thanked him and slowly made my way towards them. When I got there I said hi to Miller and checked out the skim boarding waves. It turned out the skimming was better at Foamies that at the main break. After skimming for about an hour Dad walked over with the camera. I got a couple huge airs but the camera was running out of battery, so we only got the best ones. When the camera died Dad and I walked back to the main break and I went skim boarding there with Somers and Wheeler until the sun went down.