Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Waves in Sayulita

    The past few days my dad and I have been paddle boarding.  A couple days ago we went to the other side of the beach and surfed rights, but today we surfed lefties.  A right is a wave that breaks towards the “right” if you’re looking at the beach and a “left” is a wave that breaks toward the left if you’re looking towards the beach.  This past week everybody has been psyched about the swell.  It was supposed to come in on Thursday and it was right on time.  My dad got out in the water for dawn patrol, surfing in the morning, but there were almost no waves. I went out a little bit later and the waves were getting a little bit bigger and more often. We could tell the swell was coming.  Just before my dad went in, two huge overhead waves started rolling in one after another. They were the first really big waves of that day.  Everybody saw them coming and started paddling to get over them.  I was the only one to not get caught in the impact zone because I was on a paddle board and everybody else was surfing.  I barely made it over the first wave and on the second one I just barely broke through the lip as it was curling over. After that my dad headed in because he had been out for a while and Mom needed him.  I caught a couple more waves before it got too windy and choppy.  I caught a short wave in and looked out at the water and saw the choppy water the big waves and the cloudy sky, all signs of a big swell.  As I was walking back I saw more big waves pounding down on people and I figured it was best that I had gotten out.  Tomorrow the swell will be pounding.

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