Monday, January 26, 2015

Yesterday some friends invited us to El Anclote, a beach about a half hour away from sayulita.  We packed boards, towels, snacks, and sunscreen.  When we got there it turned out we wouldn't be needing the sun screen.  It was raining, but the rain doesn't bother you if you're already wet, so went surfing.  I grabbed my paddle board and started paddling out.  My friends Miller and Chuckles were already out there and they showed me where the rocks were.  I hadn't been to Anclote in over a year
, so I had forgotten how the waves broke.  To catch them you have to paddle really hard, but once you're on the wave you get a really long ride unless someone drops in one you.  Another thing about Anclote is how fast the waves are, in sayulita they are steeper but they're slow so tricks are harder.  At Anclote the waves aren't as steep but they're faster and smoother.  Sometimes you can catch a foamer, a wave that has already broken, and it will reform into a nice green wave.  My brother had been riding a 7' 0" longboard and he had caught a lot of waves but was getting tired and cold.  When he came in I grabbed his board and my paddle.  I paddled out on my knees because it was so tippy but when I got further out I stood up slowly.  I caught only three good waves and I fell in a lot but it was fun once I got onto a wave.  The hardest part was not sliding off the board because there was almost no wax.  We stayed at Anclote for almost the whole day and we only left because it started to get dark.  On the drive back we all talked about our favorite waves and I ate a pack of cookies.


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